Beer Forum

Hey all,

Thought I'd toss you some pictures of a just-unboxed JSP Maltmill. This is the Model A, with the gear drive option and case hardened rollers.

I ordered it directly from the manufacturer, here: http://schmidling.com/orderpp.htm (Ordered 5/15; arrived 5/27)


First look
So far, so good...

http://i.imgur.com/A39Cqd3.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/UxmvWm9.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/PlgA9t6.jpg

Adjusting the crank set screw
Loctite was required...

http://i.imgur.com/L2Z9OJd.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/MlCJm4F.jpg

Hopper finger guards removed
Probably going to put them back on...

http://i.imgur.com/PWpH4hA.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/XJFEE59.jpg

Milled about a pound
Wanted to get the thin film of oil off...

http://i.imgur.com/zozSMzm.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Vhy30Wo.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/EDStqYo.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/wteX356.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/2SWsBeM.jpg

And my only annoyance
What's up with the set screw design?..

http://i.imgur.com/OimBqcj.jpg


Thoughts

1. If you are going to use the hand crank, do not remove the finger guards-- It's WAY too hard to turn the rollers without them restricting the grain (EDIT: Unless the base bolts are tightened extremely snugly and the crank is installed close to the mill). However, the mechanism itself is so smooth that you can pinch the drive shaft with your fingers and turn it easily, assuming you're not actively crushing grain.

2. Use Loctite on the crank set screw threads or it will come loose pretty quickly.

3. Don't expect a shipping notice from the manufacturer-- The mill will just randomly show up at your door in a couple of weeks.

4. Overall, I'm satisfied; I'll update this thread if that changes.


If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask...

How much grain fits into that hopper? It doesn't look like it holds a lot.

TheDarkSide wrote:How much grain fits into that hopper? It doesn't look like it holds a lot.

The hopper holds 3 lbs of grain comfortably. Maybe a handful or two more than that if you wanted to push it.

After crushing 8 lbs of grain, using the default gap setting, I deformed the flat base of the crank set screw to the point where it is now a \_| shape instead of |_| ..which is a little disappointing. The screw is physically not up to the job, however the Loctite held.

(EDIT: I had a hard time turning the crank because my base bolts were not tight enough and the crank wasn't close enough to the mill body)

I had also used Loctite on the base bolts (that hold the base to the mill body), and during the cranking process one of them still broke loose. I'm going to try again and give them more torque this time.

(EDIT: After re-tightening the base bolts I have no problems cranking by hand at the default setting; however, it is still very difficult at the tightest gap)

In better news, my brewhouse efficiency went from 60% to 70% (I do a single infusion with a cold water batch sparge).

GSak wrote:After crushing 8 lbs of grain, using the default gap setting, I deformed the flat base of the crank set screw to the point where it is now a \_| shape instead of |_| ..which is a little disappointing. The screw is physically not up to the job, however the Loctite held.

I could never get the screw to hold on my Barley Crusher either. Now I just attach a drill and run it that way.

GSak wrote:In better news, my brewhouse efficiency went from 60% to 70% (I do a single infusion with a cold water batch sparge).

Assuming you have the ability to, sparge with warm water under 170 degrees and I bet your efficiency improves even more. Sugars will dissolve a lot quicker in warm water compared to cold water

Afterlab wrote:Assuming you have the ability to, sparge with warm water under 170 degrees and I bet your efficiency improves even more. Sugars will dissolve a lot quicker in warm water compared to cold water

Believe it or not, I actually switched to cold water batch sparging from hot water batch sparging, and did not notice a drop in efficiency-- I was getting 60% both ways. It really surprised me.

I'm firing 2.5 gal batches, in a Polar Ware 5 gal kettle, using a Blichmann burner so the re-heat time isn't an issue.

Interesting. Are you finding you have to sparge at a slower rate or make other process changes to account for the colder temperatures?

Afterlab wrote:Interesting. Are you finding you have to sparge at a slower rate or make other process changes to account for the colder temperatures?

Nope! Just toss the cold water in. I always measure cold, so nothing really changed there.