Exodus into the Garage...

[Speyedr]

..So Tax time is coming up and it looks like I have a bit more coming to me than originally planned. As it happens this windfall coincides with my Wife's inevitable realization that when I brew I OWN the kitchen and if she sneezes I will cry...

Basically I am being bumped into the Garage. Alas, like a bird thrown from the nest I must learn to fly...

I am buying a B3-1000. I WANT a fully loaded 1550 but it is not yet that time and I will need a lot more than what Uncle Sam is throwing back my way to get there. In any event I like the gravity VS pump functionality. I am used to it for one, and if the power goes out I'm OK (remember, the Oil IS running out.)

To the point - I have a few questions and concerns in making the jump:

1 - How many (approx.) 10-gallon all grain brew sessions will I get out of a standard propane tank fill?
2 - What is generally used to insulate a SS mash/lauter tun and Sparge Tank (I will miss my coolers)?

Any other words of wisdom are greatly appreciated...

[bub]

as far as gas is concerned you should get a minimum of 3 up to 5.
otherwise don't know don't have that system
BUB

[Homegrown Hops]

I am getting four 10 gallon brews out of my small LP tank. If I were to insulate I would use a water heater balnket or some of that "quilted space blanket" material. It looks like a quilt made from emergency blankets (mylar).

[Danno]

2 - What is generally used to insulate a SS mash/lauter tun and Sparge Tank (I will miss my coolers)?

If you're buying pots for your HLT & MT you can heat them directly and thus don't need the insulation. I realize that preventing heat loss is a good thing but you're just wasting money on the pots if you're not making use of their ability to be heated via direct flame.

[Speyedr]

Thanks for the input guys...

Danno, I will be heating directly, and insulating. For one, it will save a little gas, but more importantly it will help maintain target mash temp for longer periods without the need to adjust. It's FREAKIN' COLD here right now, so maintaining temp will be trickier until it warms up.

[Homegrown Hops]

Since you are direct firing the pots, forget the mylar unless you need a new house(its flammable as hell)

[Speyedr]

No matter WHAT I use I plan to remove before using the burners, and then putting back on to insulate. I also have a fire extinguisher on the list

[Steve]

No matter WHAT I use I plan to remove before using the burners, and then putting back on to insulate. I also have a fire extinguisher on the list

I wish I was a bit better at posting pics so I could show you MY brewery. I'm still working on doing that blog thing as you suggested but in the meantime. If your future brewery is going to be welded up by a local welder just go with a standard three tier design HLT up top the second tier will hold the mash tun/lauter tun and last the brewpot. I designed mine where the brewpot was just high enough to drain into a fermentor. Each vessel was positioned where it'll gravity feed into the next, of course I used modified kegs. I don't know if you have some other type pot in mind for the job but kegs are truely nice. Typicaly when doing a mash using 18-20 pounds of grain this is enough of a thermal mass to hold the temp during the entire hour or hour and a half period with minimal heat loss. It's hard to believe it until you've gone through it, really you don't lose as much as you may think. Keep in mind though I'm brewing down here in Florida where the temp doesn't often fall below 60 deg.F. Your tempeture adjustments may need to be a bit more frequent. You'll be fine! Get er done.
Steve