Delayed cider fermentation question

[Lars]

My concern with leaving it as is, is that I don't have a keg system. So I'll either have to serve it out of a carboy until it's done or attenuate it further so that it's safe to bottle.

Again, WHY do you want it to attenuate further? If you are worried about bottle bombs there are products you can use to kill off any remaining yeast (camden tabs, etc). If it tastes good now, then don't f with it. I think many brewers get all wound up about hitting numbers or attenuation, when they should really simply be after the best product they can make, and DAMN the freakin numbers!!!

[ravingcutie]

My aim for further fermentation would be to ensure that I won't be bottling bombs. You mentioned using Campden tablets which I do have. Will they effectively kill enough of the yeast in order to make bottling possible? Am I going to see much of an affect on flavor if I go that route?

[Crut]

i think the stuff i used was pottasium sorbate. Used for stopping fermentation whuile sweetening. Has worked for the few times ive used it.
just a thought
-Crut

[Lufah]

My aim for further fermentation would be to ensure that I won't be bottling bombs. You mentioned using Campden tablets which I do have. Will they effectively kill enough of the yeast in order to make bottling possible? Am I going to see much of an affect on flavor if I go that route?

Blah Blah Blah.... Do you want carbonation? If you campden or sorbate or whatever you won't be able to carbonate in the bottle.

If you can keep all the bottles cold don't worry about it. Just bottle it and keep it cold. You could just add half your priming sugar leave it warm until it carbs to where you want it and then get it into the fridge. That will severely slow fermentation if not stop it completely.

[Lars]

Here is what MoreWine has to say about canden tablets...

Sodium Metabisulphite, (often referred to as "SO2", "sulphites" "meta", or "meta-bi") has several uses in winemaking. At the crush, sulphites are generally used to help control the spoilage bacteria and indigenous yeast that may already be present both on the fruit and in the winery (i.e. on the picking bins, processing equipment, tanks, tubing, etc). The amount generally used is enough to inhibit most of the unwanted organisms but not enough to hinder a cultured yeast, which has a higher tolerance to sulphites than most of the indigenous organisms do. This inhibition effectively "wipes the slate clean" for the cultured yeast to step in and rapidly colonize the must so that it can effectively dominate the subsequent fermentation. In addition, sulphites also help to inhibit the enzymatic browning of both musts and finished wines so that all of their delicate complexities can be preserved. Later, during storage and in the bottle, sulphites at the proper levels will further protect a wine by continuing to inhibit spoilage organisms, as well as by scavenging oxygen . Note that the exact amount needed to effectively do the job is determined by the pH of the wine. Refer to our MoreManuals! on Red or White Winemaking or one of the winemaking books that we offer for a complete explanation on how to properly manage sulphites. In addition, it's important to keep in mind that free SO2 levels fall faster in wood cooperage than in glass or stainless, so if you are using a barrel you will most likely need to manage sulphite levels more closely.

It will work for non wild yeasts too...

[ravingcutie]

You guys answer me, and I come up with more questions.

Yes, I do want to carbonate at least half the batch. I've only had commercial, carbonated cider, so I want to see how homebrew compares. Now this leads me to question whether or not I should pitch more yeast in order to carbonate. My yeast was old, and abused, and the cider is now in secondary. Do I repitch?

I will be doing a batch of Shilling here, so I will have Cal Ale slurry on hand. I presume that since there is alcohol present in my cider, I want yeast that is already conditioned, and not straight out of a vial.

How much do I pitch? Will a gravity of 1020 be enough to carbonate the cider on it's own, or should I take Lufah's advice and prime?

And when I want to cold crash it (I think that's the right term....) how cold does it need to be? Will a "normal" food storage cold be enough to stop fermentation?

Suddenly, phosphating the whole batch seems so simple.....

[rhino777]

I just primed my cider and was quite happy with it.